ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN MODERN MEDICINAL COSMETICS AND COSMETIC PRODUCTS FOR ACNE TREATMENT
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.11603/2312-0967.2026.3.16484Keywords:
acne, active ingredients, medicinal cosmetics, cosmetic products, antimicrobial effectAbstract
The aim of the work. Analysis and generalization of information on modern approaches to the use of active substances in medical cosmetics and cosmetic products for acne prone skin, in particular salicylic, azelaic and mandelic acids, benzoyl peroxide and biologically active substance of plant origin – bakuchiol, and study of evidence on their safety.
Materials and methods. The article analyzes scientific publications from various databases over the past 10–15 years, the State Register of Medicines, instructions for the medical use of topical preparations for the treatment of acne, and regulatory documentation on the use of biologically active substances in cosmetic products. Bibliosemantic, analytical, comparative, and systematic research methods were used.
Results and discussion. Based on the analysis of literature sources and regulatory documents, the approaches that are decisive for the use of salicylic, azelaic and mandelic acids, benzoyl peroxide and bakuchiol in the composition of medicinal cosmetics and cosmetic products for acne treatment are summarized. It was found that salicylic and azelaic acids belong to both active pharmaceutical ingredients and cosmetic ingredients, benzoyl peroxide – only to active ingredients of cutaneous medicinal products, and mandelic acid and bakuchiol only to cosmetic ingredients. The concentration of these ingredients affects the classification of the product, but the key element in classifying the product is its intended use. Products with the same active ingredients may belong to different categories depending on the composition, manufacturer’s claims for use, and mechanism of action.
Conclusions. The analysis showed that the ingredients – salicylic, azelaic and mandelic acids, benzoyl peroxide and bakuchiol belong to the current trending ingredients of medicinal cosmetics and cosmetic products for acne prone skin according to the literature data and marketing offers. Specialists, including pharmacists, should know and critically evaluate information about the properties of ingredients, given that their use continues to expand in affordable cosmetic skin care products. The ability to provide qualified recommendations to patients with acne and consumers, as well as patient safety, depends on this competence.
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